Wine
WINE NOTES: VENETO Decanter magazine and the Unione Consorzi Vine Veneti sponsored a tasting of a cross-section of wines from six of the several DOC regions in the area. For a long time, the Veneto was mostly well-known for Soave and Valpolicella, and not always with much regard. Sadly, that disregard is still the default mode for about three-quarters of Soave (which is a lot of wine), and also the case for much of their insipid cash-cow, Pinot Grigio. The good news was something of a surprise—Bardolino, usually thought of as Valpolicella’s kid brother, seems to be coming into its own somewhat. The world certainly needs more light, vibrant red wines, and here were some beauties, led by Cavalchina, whose 2008 was superb, light and soft but with a great deal of finesse, fine on its own, even better with lunch (braised belly pork, but I’d bet any of the best would also be great with trout or salmon); lighter but still charming were Monte del Fra, Gerardo Cesari, and Cantina Zeni from the same vintage.
The other pleasant surprise was Bianco di Custoza, the white made from a blend similar to Soave (but with a different clone of Trebbiano, the evil weed that drags down too many Italian whites). It’s also now sometimes known as simply Custoza. I haven’t bothered with it for years—way too lackluster—but the newest versions were a small revelation. Cavalchina again led the way, with a lightly flowery aroma and buoyant flavor, joined by Tamburino Sardo, Gorgo, and Monte del Fra; all demonstrate the enjoyable possibilities.
WINE NOTES: FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Highlights from a recent tasting: Livio Felluga’s Terre Alta stood out for its considerable aroma and complexity, as it always does; Lis Neris Pinot Grigio showed how it ought to be done, a solid wine with a persistent flavor; Villa Russiz Ribolla Gialla was as lush as it should be, with a wonderful honeysuckle aroma; Schiopetto’s Pinot Bianco was a little understated but very fresh, and kept evolving into subtle complexities as the tasting went on—not as forward as Jermann (outstanding), but another good example of how good Friulian Pinot Blanc can be (in the same way that Robert Princic and others have re-defined Sauvignon Blanc for those of us who don’t care for cat pee/gooseberry).
WINE NOTES: RIOJA Decanter and Wine From Rioja sponsored a tasting recently that showcased a terrific cross-section, with some fine examples from 1998s and 2001, still showing on some restaurant wine lists. There are a lot of winners from those two superb vintages. Some highlights:
Tops were the Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva 1998 and Baron de Chirel 2001, the former at its peak right now, slightly cedary, still carrying good fruit, quite firm and elegant, and the latter especially elegant, very smooth, polished, with deep, focused flavor and a clean, persistent aftertaste. In the same class was C.V.N.E.’s Contino Viña del Olivo 2001, showing classic tobacco-and-leather overtones and an abundance of fruit, destined for a good long life.
Just a half-step behind were an impressive group: C.V.N.E.’s Imperial Reserva 2001 was well-structured, quite drinkable now but firm enough to age another five years easily; Bodegas La Rioja Alta’s Baron de Ona Reserva 1999, a single-vineyard wine from Alavesa aged in both French and American oak was notably but not unpleasantly cedary, with good fruit apparent; Marques de Caceres 2000 had lovely bright color, slightly lighter body, smooth, good fruit and flavor, ready now; Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva 1998 was very deep and full in flavor and color, delicious now but worth a bet for a bit more aging; Bodegas Palacio Reserva 2001 was exuberantly fruity, rich and yet fresh and suave, a lovely mouthful of wine. For more information: www.winesfromrioja.co.uk
