Selected Pubs

THE HARWOOD ARMS

This is London’s first Michelin-starred gastropub, cleaned up and polished, serving accomplished, hearty, and very British sort of food from young chef Stephen Williams. Inside, it has the look and feel of a country pub, but the food’s another story: grilled salted ox tongue with cauliflower-cheese croquette, ham hock and pig’s ears on toast, roe deer and walnut terrine, roast cod on a bed of savoury chanterelles with foraged sea purslane and salsify fritters, and a lively variation of cullen skink,  far from the usual poor Scots cliché—this one had mussels in a bit of broth with smoked fish, kale, and a breaded poached egg. You can also find mutton, haggis croquettes, and marmalade doughnuts from time to time. The wine list is informal, well-chosen, eclectic, and enthusiastically annotated, just right for the menu and surroundings: offbeat Portuguese, southern Italy, Australia, a smattering of Rhône and other French regions, mostly under £35. A dozen wines by the glass come in two sizes, small and large.

The Harwood Arms, 27 Walham Grove, Fulham, London SW6 1QP. Tel: +44 (0)20 7386 1847.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, reservations advised.

Nearest Tube: Fulham Broadway

Nearest attractions: not much