Wine/Dine: Recipes and Wine

original photos

WINE NOTES: VENETO Decanter magazine and the Unione Consorzi Vine Veneti sponsored a tasting this week of a cross-section of wines from six of the several DOC regions in the area. For a long time, the Veneto was mostly well-known for Soave and Valpolicella, and not always with much regard. Sadly, that disregard is still the default mode for about three-quarters of Soave (which is a lot of wine), and also the case for much of their insipid cash-cow, Pinot Grigio. The good news was something of a surprise—Bardolino, usually thought of as Valpolicella’s kid brother, seems to be coming into its own somewhat. The world certainly needs more light, vibrant red wines, and here were some beauties, led by Cavalchina, whose 2008 was superb, light and soft but with a great deal of finesse, fine on its own, even better with lunch (braised belly pork, but I’d bet any of the best would also be great with trout or salmon); lighter but still charming were Monte del Fra, Gerardo Cesari, and Cantina Zeni from the same vintage. . . The other pleasant surprise was Bianco di Custoza, the white made from a blend similar to Soave (but with a different clone of Trebbiano, the evil weed that drags down too many Italian whites). It’s also now sometimes known as simply Custoza. I haven’t bothered with it for years—way too lackluster—but the newest versions were a small revelation. Cavalchina again led the way, with a lightly flowery aroma and buoyant flavor, joined by Tamburino Sardo, Gorgo, and Monte del Fra; all demonstrate the enjoyable possibilities.

Here's a good choice for a light white wine like those Custozas:

PASTA SALAD WITH GRILLED EGGPLANT, MINTED PEAS, TOASTED WALNUTS, AND LEMON DRESSING

This dish is the essence of summer, fresh and bright and delicious. It's from my food-and-wine cookbook, "The Wine Lover Cooks Italian." Serves 4 as a main course, or 6 as a first course.

2 globe eggplants, about 8 ounces each,

cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1/2 cup olive oil

1 cup walnut halves

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups shelled English peas

or frozen petite peas, defrosted

8 sprigs mint

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound penne or other short tubular pasta

grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

3 tablespoons chopped green onions,

including light green parts

Light a fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat the broiler. Brush the eggplant slices on both sides with the 1/2 cup olive oil and place on the grill rack or on a broiler pan lined with aluminum foil, about four inches from the heat source. Grill or broil, turning as necessary, until evenly browned, about 5 minutes per side total. Set aside to cool, then cut into 1-inch squares.

In a dry skillet, toast the walnuts over medium heat shaking the pan often, until they are fragrant and beginning to take on color, 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from the heat before they darken too much, as they’ll continue cooking off the heat, and pour onto a plate. Set aside.

In a saucepan, combine the water and 4 of the mint sprigs and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the peas and simmer just until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and discard the mint. Set aside.

Bring a large pot filled with salted water to a boil, add the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente, about 11 minutes. Drain, rinse well with cold water, and drain again.

In a small bowl, whisk together extra-virgin olive oil and the lemon zest and juice to make a dressing. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the pasta, eggplant, peas, green onions, and dressing. Strip the leaves from the remaining mint sprigs, tear each leaf in pieces and add to the bowl, along with the walnuts. Toss well and serve.

WINE NOTES: FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA 2006 Decanter and Vigneto Friuli sponsored a tasting in early October of a cross-section of wines from the vintage of 2006. From top to toe, Italy went through a peculiar harvest year, but one which seems to have turned out well for most. (In Sicily this Spring, tasting barrel samples, I was struck by how good—though big and bold—the wines were, given that Sicily had suffered hot, near-drought conditions.) In northeastern Italy, the summer began dry and hot, then turned cool and quite wet, then sailed into a nice Indian-Summer autumn cycle. Grapes ripened quickly, and the harvest ended soon after it began. How are the wines so far? Lovely, well structured, fresh, with lively acidity and a fair amount of richness—perhaps not maximum, but within the bounds of optimum.

Highlights: Livio Felluga’s Terre Alta stood out for its considerable aroma and complexity, as it always does; Lis Neris Pinot Grigio showed how it ought to be done, a solid wine with a persistent flavor; Villa Russiz Ribolla Gialla was as lush as it should be, with a wonderful honeysuckle aroma; Schiopetto’s Pinot Bianco was a little understated but very fresh, and kept evolving into subtle complexities as the tasting went on—not as forward as Jermann (outstanding), but another good example of how good Friulian Pinot Blanc can be (in the same way that Robert Princic and others have re-defined Sauvignon Blanc for those of us who don’t care for cat pee/gooseberry). Prognosis: Looking good.

SPAGHETTI IN BRESAOLA-ROSEMARY SAUCE

This is a terrific first course, and would make a perfect match with most of the wines above (the Ribolla Gialla’s the odd wine out, delicious but too aromatic and rich for this dish). Serves 4 as a first course

1 tablespoon golden raisins

2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon sea salt

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil,

plus extra for serving

12 ounces spaghetti

4 ounces bresaola, cut into half-inch dice

½ cup walnuts, chopped

freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, soak the raisins in warm water to cover for 30 minutes, to soften. Drain, pat dry with paper towels, and chop roughly. In a mortar, combine the raisins, rosemary, salt, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and grind with a pestle to make a rough paste. (Alternatively, mix together in a small bowl with the back of a spoon.)

Bring a large pot of boiling salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente, about 11 minutes.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed saucepan or skillet large enough to accommodate the pasta later. Add the bresaola, rosemary mixture, and walnuts, stir well, and cook until the bresaola begins to change color, 2 or 3 minutes. Drain the pasta, add to the pan, and season with pepper. Stir well to coat the pasta thoroughly with the sauce.

Divide the pasta evenly among warmed shallow bowls. Drizzle a little olive oil over each portion and serve at once.

WINE NOTES: RIOJA Decanter and Wine From Rioja sponsored a tasting recently that showcased a terrific cross-section of what’s on the market right now. There were only a few wines from 2004/5, both highly regarded vintages (just crianzas and a few rosados at this stage), so I concentrated on the 1998s and 2001s. Or maybe I should say I contented myself, as that describes how I felt—quite contented indeed. There are a lot of winners from those two superb vintages. Some highlights:

Tops were the Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva 1998 and Baron de Chirel 2001, the former at its peak right now, slightly cedary, still carrying good fruit, quite firm and elegant, and the latter especially elegant, very smooth, polished, with deep, focused flavor and a clean, persistent aftertaste. In the same class was C.V.N.E.’s Contino Viña del Olivo 2001, showing classic tobacco-and-leather overtones and an abundance of fruit, destined for a good long life.

Just a half-step behind were an impressive group: C.V.N.E.’s Imperial Reserva 2001 was well-structured, quite drinkable now but firm enough to age another five years easily; Bodegas La Rioja Alta’s Baron de Ona Reserva 1999, a single-vineyard wine from Alavesa aged in both French and American oak was notably but not unpleasantly cedary, with good fruit apparent; Marques de Caceres 2000 had lovely bright color, slightly lighter body, smooth, good fruit and flavor, ready now; Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva 1998 was very deep and full in flavor and color, delicious now but surely worth a bet for five more years of aging; Bodegas Palacio Reserva 2001 was exuberantly fruity, quite rich and yet fresh and suave, a lovely mouthful of wine.

For further information: www.winesfromrioja.co.uk

GRILLED CHICKEN CACCIATORA

“Hunter’s chicken” has evolved over the years into a rather tame but rich tomato-based casserole, rather than a tangy, savory dish assembled easily from foraging around forest and farmland, and cooked in the open air. This version brings it back down to that sort of earthiness with the extra flavor of fire and smoke from charcoal before being finished in a pot. Serves 4.

8 chicken thighs

1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick

1 onion, chopped

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound fresh white mushrooms, sliced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

3 fresh thyme sprigs

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons tomato puree

3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

¾ pound pasta (fettuccine or pappardelle) for serving

Light a fire in a charcoal grill with a cover, using about 30 briquettes. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. Rinse, pat dry, and trim off excess fat and skin.

In a bowl, toss together the carrots, onion and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place the carrots and onion on a circle in the center of a sheet of aluminum foil about 18 inches long. Fold up the sides to enclose completely, and then turn the packet over onto another sheet of foil the same size, again folding up the sides.

When the coals are hot (after about 30 minutes, when they’re barely covered with gray ash, and you can only hold your hand about 4 inches above them for 2 or 3 seconds), move them to either side of the grate and place a metal drip pan between the two banks. (A disposable aluminum roasting pan is a good choice.) Lightly oil the grill rack and place the chicken thighs on it, centering them over the drip pan. Place the foil packet to one side of the grill, directly over the coals, and cover the grill and cook, turning the foil packet over carefully with a long-handled spatula every 5 minutes for 20 minutes. Remove the packet from the grill and open the foil. Cover the grill again and cook the chicken until it is nicely browned, about another 15 minutes, then remove the chicken from the grill.

In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they begin to release their juices, just a few minutes. Add the garlic and thyme, and then add the carrots, onions, and chicken, and stir well. Season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, tomatoes, and puree, mix well, and bring just to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until chicken is completely tender, about 30 minutes.

Bring a large pot filled with salted water to the boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente, about 11 minutes. Drain well. Put the pasta in warmed shallow bowls. Place 2 chicken thighs on top of the pasta on each plate, and spoon sauce and vegetables over them. Serve at once

WINE NOTES: It began as a Tuscan dish, and it suits Tuscan reds: Chianti Classico 2003 from Isole E Olena is a lovely wine, fresh and vibrant, while a good example of a bigger style from a very good vintage is Carpineto’s Chianti Classico Riserva from 2001 (just one example of many from that year). If you wanted an even more serious wine—with prices to match, but worth it—you could try Brunello di Montalcino from the terrific vintage of 2001; Ruffino’s is very very good, Banfi’s “Poggio alle Mura” is great. If you prefer white, it’s best to go south, to Campania, for something sturdy like Fiano di Avellino; Vesevo or Feudi di San Gregorio from 2005 are both superb, fresh and lively but with substance.

PRAWN, RED PEPPER AND LEEK RISOTTO

Prawns are somewhat sweet, so are ripe peppers, and leeks when cooked; together, they make a nice, easygoing fit. Tarragon makes it heavenly. The prawns are added at the end to keep them from overcooking, but using the shells in the stock boosts the flavor. Serves 4

8 ounces tiger prawns

1 cup water

6 cups canned, low-salt chicken broth

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 leeks, white part only, chopped

2 red bell peppers, seeded, deribbed, cut in 1/4-inch dice

2 cups Arborio rice

1 cup dry white wine

1-1/2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

Peel and devein the prawns, reserving the shells. Place prawns in a bowl of water and put aside. In a small saucepan, combine the shells and 1 cup water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes; they’ll turn pink. Strain the liquid and discard the shells. Return liquid to the saucepan, add the chicken broth. Bring to a slow simmer on a back burner.

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt butter with olive oil over low heat. Add leeks and peppers and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium, add the rice to the pan, stir, and cook until opaque, about 2 or 3 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until nearly absorbed. Begin adding ½ cup of hot broth at a time, cooking each addition until almost all the liquid is absorbed, and stirring often to keep it from sticking.

After about 20 minutes, when the rice is nearly done, drain the prawns, cut them in half crosswise, and add them and the tarragon to the pan, stirring gently. Cook for a further 4 minutes, or until prawns are pink and opaque throughout. The rice is ready when almost all the liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender but firm to the bite. If it’s not done, stir in another ½ cup hot liquid–use water if all the broth has been used–and cook another few minutes. Serve in warmed shallow bowls, garnished with a sprinkling of chives.

WINE NOTES: The best match is white, not too crisp or tart, with a bit of lively fruit (this risotto is full-flavored, but not rich in a densely voluptuous sense). Pieropan Soave 2004, Franz Hass Pinot Bianco 2004, and Allegrini’s new Cortegiara Pinot Grigio 2005 would all fill the bill nicely. Gavi would also be a good choice, though they tend to be over-priced too often. Another very good set of partners would be from outside Italy (and why not?)—Albariño, from Spain; the 2004 vintage, out now, is terrific, and a fine match.