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<title>Food and Wine in London</title>
<description>Brian St. Pierre's take on food and wine in London</description>
<link>http://www.foodandwineinlondon.com</link>
<lastBuildDate>Sat, 10 Dec 2011 16:20:24 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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    <title><![CDATA[Jeremy Lee moves to Quo Vadis]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Sam and Eddie Hart have announced a new partnership with Jeremy Lee, who will take charge of the kitchen at Quo Vadis. The restaurant will be closed for refurbishment from the 24th of December and will be reopening with a new menu and decor in the second week of January. Jeremy was part of Simon Hopkinson’s fabled kitchen brigade at Bibendum, and then went to the Blueprint Café in 1995, where he quickly established himself as one of London’s best chefs, with an assured, slightly quirky menu that he defined as “modern British,” though he pushed the envelope a bit with dishes like squid, samphire, and peas; Abroath smokie and potato salad; smoked eel sandwich with red-onion pickle; thick roast lamb chops with girolles; and a dense hare-and-chorizo pie. That part of Dean Street is one of Soho’s truly historic spots: Mozart once played the piano across the street, Karl Marx lived upstairs (“in some squalor”), and Charles De Gaulle drowned his exile’s sorrows a few doors down during WWII; Quo Vadis has been a well-known restaurant and hangout since 1926. <b>Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL,Tel: +44 (0)20 7440 1450. Open for lunch and dinner (from 5:00 p.m.) Monday-Saturday.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Zagat Survey 2012: some thoughts]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Whatever you think of the Zagat Surveys—and my thought is that it’s a very mixed bag in terms of recommendations—it’s a pretty good snapshot of the restaurant scene in whatever town it’s covering. This year’s London survey rounded up the opinions of 5,497 diners who eat out a couple of times a week. The favorite cuisine is, unsurprisingly, Italian; more than a third are influenced by a connection to a famous chef, and three-quarters visit a restaurant’s website before eating there; a majority think “green” food (locally sourced, organic, etc.) is important, but the amount of people willing to pay more for it is down (that’s also true of supermarket surveys, too). A majority think texting, tweeting or talking on a mobile phone is “rude and inappropriate,” but don’t mind diners taking pictures of their food or companions, as long as it’s done in moderation (no definition of “moderation” for this crass behaviour is supplied). Top complaint? Service, as always.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Texture’s wine list elevates Riesling]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Texture, the  award-winning restaurant near Portman Square in London, has overhauled its wine list, with the intention of bringing it more in line with chef Agnar Sverrisson’s northern European cooking (he is Icelandic, and the menu features interesting variations on fish cooking). The menu has evolved over the four  years since the restaurant was founded, and co-owner and Master Sommelier Xavier Rousset has decided re-align the wine list  to create more harmony among many of his dishes; thus, more Riesling, from Germany, Alsace, Austria, Australia, New Zealand, and other countries, including some rare and old vintages (and also an increase in Burgundy and Pinot Noir from elsewhere). <b>Texture, 34 Portman Street, London W1H 7BY. Tel: 020 7224 0028; info@texture-restaurant.co.uk</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Zagat ratings: The Ledbury up, Ramsay down]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Tim Zagat was genial, even ebullient—as you’d expect, having sold his business to Google for a rumoured $200-million--at The Cut, Wolfgang Puck’s sleek, chic new restaurant at 45 Park Lane, as he presented the <b>Zagat Survey</b> 2012 results of London restaurants. With 5,497 diners reporting on 1,187 restaurants, it’s a fairly good snapshot of the scene. The Ledbury was up in several categories, number one for food (no argument from me there), and second for service (the Waterside Inn came first); it also entered the top-ten list for most favourite for the first time. Meanwhile, Gordon Ramsay’s flagship restaurant at Royal Hospital Road was down in all those categories—it led the food ratings for most of the last decade, but has now dropped to number eight. Also of note: The average cost of dining out has jumped by 6.3 percent—that’s slightly less than the average cost of dining in, judging by my market basket.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[English vineyard tours offered]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[<b>Artisan & Vine,</b> the award-winning London wine bar in Battersea, is launching a series of day visits to acclaimed English vineyards.  “It’s clear that people are curious about English wine,” comments owner Kathryn O’Mara. “We thought it was a great opportunity to show Londoners how fabulous English wines and their vineyards are!”  Vineyards on the schedule include <b>Ridgeview Wine Estate</b> in Sussex, <b>Chapel Down Winery</b> in Kent and <b>Biddenden Vineyards and Ciderworks,</b> also in Kent.  The day trips will run once a month from July 2011 and are priced from £49, which includes pre-departure refreshments, luxury coach transportation to and from the vineyard, tours of vineyard and winery, a tasting of the vineyard’s wines, and a delicious local lunch. <b>www.artisanandvine.com/wine-experiences/vineyard-tours/</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[English wine: Sparkling news]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Production figures for the 2010 harvest in England have just been announced by the English Wine Producers; 30,346 hectolitres were vinified, equating to just over 4 million bottles.  This is the highest volume ever produced, breaking a previous record of 3.5m bottles. The increase reflects the rise in planting over the last five years.  Since 2004, vineyard hectarage has increased by nearly 75 percent, to 1323.5ha.   (This figure understates the true position, as official figures do not account for all the hectarage planted but not yet in production.) Sparkling wine leads the way.  In 2009 approximately 50 percent of total production was intended for sparkling wine, and based on the level of growth of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier plantings over the last five years, the trend will continue: These three varieties account for almost 50 percent of the total area.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Champagne Bar opens in Paddington Station]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Following the success of its elegant Champagne Bar in St. Pancras Station, Searcy’s has now opened <b>Paddington Champagne Bar,</b> in that station. Notable houses will be represented, and prices will range from £8 a glass (there are 14 offered by the glass) up to £320 for a bottle of Dom Perignon 1990. (For a real indulgence, there is also a Balthazar of Laurent-Perrier Brut NV for £1,200.) The menu features small plates, tapas-style, designed to match with Champagne, including cured British meats from Trealy Farm, daily seafood choices, and fine cheeses. Sharing boards are also  available; prices range from £4 to £29. Another feature is Tasting Flights, with  selections of smaller glasses of different styles. There’s also a selection of Champagne cocktails including The Paddington Bear (Grand Marnier, bitters, Champagne and candied orange). The elegant bar is in art deco style, and open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon to 10:30 p.m. on  Sunday.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Dinner by Heston Blumenthal--delicious inventiveness]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Heston Blumenthal’s new restaurant, <b>Dinner by Heston Blumenthal,</b> opened with even more publicity than Prince William’s engagement. Here’s a sneak preview of what he’s going to be up to with his menu, which executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts calls “historically linked.” It shows that, although this won’t be Fat Duck-style molecular gastronomy, some of the tricks they’ve learned there will come into play: They make a light but rich and smooth chicken-liver parfait, roll it into hand-sized balls, and freeze it, really deeply. Then they cook up a batch of spicy mandarin orange jelly and pour it over the meat, coating it. The jelly sets almost immediately, nearly freezing. With a green sprig tucked into the top, it looks just like an orange. The “oranges” are then slowly defrosted overnight in a fridge for service the next day. The combination of flavors—spicy orange and unctuous chicken-liver—creates a fascinating contrast. It’s witty, imaginative, and quite delicious.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Marcus Wareing branching out in style, in St. Pancras]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Marcus Wareing has announced the opening of his second restaurant, <b>The Gilbert Scott,</b> in early 2011 (possibly March) a “grand British brasserie” located in the heart of the much anticipated <b>St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel,</b> London. (Sir Gilbert Scott was the original architect of the stunning building, a Gothic Revival grand hotel—even in the days of splendid hotels next to train stations, it was very grand--in 1876; the restoration was helped by experts from English Heritage.) Wareing says, “This is not another Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, it is a very different venture and immensely exciting.” Expect an intriguing menu with a nostalgic array of great British classics. The menu will include dishes such as Tweed Kettle (sea trout with a nutmeg, herb and lemon crust), Dorset Jugged Steak (braised featherblade with pork, herb and redcurrent dumplings) and Manchester tart (caramelised bananas, custard and raspberry jam). The hotel looks gorgeous, another stage of the once-seedy neighborhood’s transformation. <b>www.stprancrasrenaissance.com.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Heston Blumenthal comes to London]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[If you haven’t already booked, be prepared for a two-month wait for the most anticipated restaurant of 2011: <b>Dinner by Heston Blumenthal</b> at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park (nomenclature notwithstanding, it also serves lunch) will open on January 31; the chef will be Ashley Palmer Watts, who has been with Heston at the Fat Duck for more than a decade. The menu will feature relatively simple, contemporary dishes inspired by Britain's historic gastronomic past and recipes dating as far back as the 14th century, such as Hay Smoked Mackerel, Lemon Salad and Gentleman's Relish; Roast Scallops, Cucumber Ketchup and Bergamot and Slow Cooked Beef Royal. In other words, no molecular gastronomy; from what I saw Ashley cooking at <b>Identita London,</b> the recent international chefs’ congress, the updated dishes will be stylish, with some startling but pleasant flavors (we pounced on the demonstration dishes as soon as the photo shoot was over, very happily).  <b>www.dinnerbyheston.com</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Bar Battu: A Most Natural Wine Bar]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Wine bars are popping up all over London these days, in the sort of ferment I haven’t seen since the early 1980s. The food wasn’t always that great back then, but now it’s often on a par with the wine offerings. Bar Battu, just opened in The City, is nicely typical—bare brick walls, wood floors, and what the owners term “French flea market touches.” The menu’s rustic(snail and ox cheek ragout, red mullet or other fish escabeche, grilled chicken with garlicky potato salad, lots of charcuterie and plenty of cheese) and well-executed. The wine list has about 100 selections, most natural, organic, or even biodynamic, a stellar array: COS, Lapierre, de Bortoli, Hidalgo, Domaine de la Chevalerie, Breton Vouvrays, and much more. <b>www.barbattu.com</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Heston, Jason, and . . . whatsisname?]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Identita London, the recent international chefs’ congress, didn’t lack for star power—Heinz Beck, Wylie Dufresne, David Chang, and Sat Bains were among the speakers—but the spotlight was on two British chefs in transition. <b>Ashley Palmer Watts,</b> Heston Blumenthal’s executive head chef, will be in charge of their new restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, probably London’s most eagerly awaited opening (which, this year, is saying a lot). It will be called Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, and feature modern versions of old English recipes; they have been testing recipes for months, with more to come—the place doesn’t open till January. . .<b>Jason Atherton</b> led off the program by demonstrating some recipes he’ll feature at his new restaurant, which opens in October, his first venture since leaving Maze. Interestingly, the program mentioning the great chefs he’s worked under and learned from included Pierre Koffman, Marc Haeberlin, and Ferran Adria, but not Gordon Ramsay. Surely an oversight? Whatever, his new venture is also eagerly awaited.]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Le Cafe Anglais debuts oyster bar]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Rowley Leigh's Le Café Anglais has added a snazzy new 50-seat oyster bar, installed as part of a makeover during its August closing. It features a marble bar with dark wood trim and crimson leather stools, flanked by booths and banquettes in the same materials. A massive crystal chandelier hovers above the bar, which is at the entrance of the restaurant, in front of floor-to-ceiling mullioned windows. Besides oysters (half a dozen choices, including Kumamotos at £13.50 for six, and Maldon Natives “No. 2s” at £18.50 for six), there are lobster and crab and smoked salmon, trout, eel, and mackerel in various incarnations, moules marinieres, and a sumptuous fish pie. The bar has its own wine list, 13 selections offered by the glass (£3.75-10), carafe (£8-20) and bottle (£16-40). The Oyster Bar is open seven days a week, from noon to 10:30 p.m. Bookings not required. <b>www.lecafeanglais.co.uk.</b>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Frightening thought at The Ledbury]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[I ran into Shane Osborn at the “Taste of Sydney” lunch at The Ledbury, where chef Brett Graham was hosting Peter Gilmore and Mark Best, chefs at top Sydney restaurants Marque and Quay, here to present some of their brilliantly inventive cooking (and the idea of Sydney as a fine-dining city—no argument from me on that one). . . I asked Shane how his rooftop herb garden at Pied-a- Terre was coming along, and he said he had some trouble with birds. “I put up an effigy of Marco Pierre White as a scarecrow, but it didn’t scare them off at all. Now I’ve got a sure-fire idea: I’m going to put up one of Michael Winner. That should do the trick!”]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Chutney Mary celebrates 20 years]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Chutney Mary, easily one of London’s best Indian restaurants, turns 20 this summer, marking the occasion with a series of special menus, beginning with a Seafood Showcase, followed by Unusual Kebabs and Biryanis, and then a selection of the most popular dishes of the past. Chutney Mary is unusual in having chefs from different regions of India, who supervise the cooking of their local specialties, and also in having an excellent wine list, created by consultant Matthew Jukes to match the wide variety of the food. <b>www.chutneymary.com</B>]]></description>
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    <title><![CDATA[Galvin Café a Vin goes wild]]></title>
    <description><![CDATA[Galvin Café, recently launched and popular from the start, has now added "wine" to its name, as a way of emphasizing a new list based mostly on organic, biodynamic, or at least “natural” wines (low or no sulphur dioxide, unfiltered, unfined). The bistro, behind and adjoining Galvin's more formal La Chapelle restaurant, specializes in robust country-French and Italian-style dishes, notably (and deliciously) from a wood-fired oven. As many of the wines are from artisan producers and unfamiliar, the list is thoroughly annotated by Head Sommelier Andrea Briccarello. <b>www.galvinrestaurants.com</b>]]></description>
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